Madras Checks: The fabric that changed colors and fashion forever

In a sleepy village called Madrasapatnam, which later would become Madras and then Chennai, a unique fabric emerged in the 16^th century. This handwoven, checkered fabric was initially crafted by local fishermen who used it as lungis (similar to sarongs) and handkerchiefs. Made from vegetable dyes, the fabric was vibrant, lightweight, and perfectly suited for the hot, humid climate of South India.

The fabric gained international attention in the mid-17th century when Madras became a major trading hub for the British East India Company. Recognizing the fabric’s potential, Company official Francis Day encouraged weavers to produce it for export.

In 1958, William Jacobson, a prominent textile importer, discovered this unique fabric and purchased 10,000 yards from Captain C.P. Krishnan of Leela Lace. Jacobson sold the fabric to Brooks Brothers in the U.S., which launched a line of Madras Checks clothing. Unfortunately, they missed a critical care instruction: the fabric needed to be washed gently in cold water to avoid bleeding. Customers were disappointed when their garments faded and changed colors after washing. This led to a steep decline in sales.

To counter the consumer backlash, Brooks Brothers looked up to the advertising genius David Ogilvy who came up with the slogan “guaranteed to bleed,” highlighting the fabric’s unique tendency to bleed as its USP.  This clever marketing strategy piqued consumer interest, making the fabric’s dynamic quality and evolving patterns with every wash a desirable feature. The product was rebranded as Bleeding Madras, and the fabric guaranteed to bleed with every wash became an instant hit.

While advancements in technology and changes in trends have led to the replacement of handwoven processes with power looms and chemical dyes, the legacy of Bleeding Madras endures. Though it no longer bleeds, its rich history and distinctive patterns remain highly sought-after by global brands, preserving its iconic status in the world of fashion.